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Hat Project Layout Notes
The free designs used for this hat are on the Free page or the Free2008 page. I used McCalls pattern 8084. I used linen/rayon blend fabric for the outer layer,and cotton/ linen blend for the lining. You will need a small piece of buckram for stiffening the peak (or some might call it a brim,or bill). I have heard of hats stiffened with milk carton plastic, but have never tried it. It is nice to have heavy inner facing material between the buckram and the fashion fabric, and I like to use iron-on polyfill fluff inside the top and bottom layers of fashion fabric used for the peak. The polyfill makes the hat brim look less wrinkled as it wears. Cut two as the pattern suggests. I think it is much easier to edge it with bias tape. Make a strip of 2 inch or 5 mm bias tape about 18 inches or 50 cm long. Press it using a bias tape gadget.
Since I was making the hat, I could position the embroidery pattern before I cut the fabric. Cut a long strip that is tall enough to put the pattern piece on and wide enough to hold six repeats. This is a bit wasteful of material, but since the hat takes less than half a yard, that is not a serious problem.
My layout instructions are for a machine with a 130 mm X180 mm hoop (or larger). You will need to do it differently if you have a small hoop. I used badge master water soluble stabilizer, but any wash out or soft tear-away stabilizer will work.
Do not cut out each piece as you finish it. Leave the strip intact until you have all six patterns for the top of the hat embroidered. Leave the fabric in the hoop after you embroider each repeat of pattern H1 (called panel files in later hat designs). Lay the pattern piece over the design, with the point of the pattern touching the centering mark on the top of the embroidery hoop.
Un-hoop after you draw the outline with a wash out pen. This assures that the embroidery is centered symmetrically on each hat section.
Then hoop for the second hat panel. Stitch the design, and draw the pattern outline. Re-hoop, and repeat until all six panels are done. Then use the remaining fabric to embroider pattern HB on the peak . Follow the instructions in the pattern for the rest of the assembly.