aArtline Customer Designs Free Designs Lesson Topics
About Thred Downloads Exchanges Links, ThredTalk
About Us FAQ Home Projects
Clip Library Free Screen Saver Lessons Search
Tutorials

Free Gardenia applique design

CSD DST EXP HUS

Gardenia Appliqué

I chose to make this appliqué design without using the "Fill/border/appliqué" feature in Thred because I wanted to make the petals very curved. I like the deep curves and tapering lines I can make using the "Convert to ribbon" feature.

  If you want to study my design, here are some (almost)step-by-step instructions that will get you started. It's too complicated for an entire step by step.

1. Load the bitmap file, g-nu.bmp. Because this is a color photograph, I made my custom thread colors really loud and noticeable while I was working on the design. The leaves were neon green, etc. I used hide bitmap as soon as I had my outlines set up so I could see the design better, and changed my colors to look a bit more like the finished design. But I felt the shadows in the photograph were important for planning the colors in the design so I didn't make a simplified line drawing of it instead.

2. Make a form for the leaves, by selecting "Form/line" and left clicking along the outline of the leaves. Then right click to end the form. Put the cross in the custom color box number 1.

3. Then fill the form using "Fill/border/line". Check that your stitch length is pretty short, about 1.8 mm. If you forgot to do that before you filled; select the form and use the "F" key to get the form-form. Changing the number for "stitch length" in the form will change it in the design too.

4. Select the form and then "Edit/copy to layer/4". Then fill it the same as the first. Then move the first one to layer 4, too,being careful to move it a hair off the other one, or you won't be able to see either one. Use "edit/move to Layer/4" to do that. I like to have my anchoring lines for appliqué just a hair off rather on top of each other anyway, so it holds the fabric down better, although it is easier to use a "Double" line border, which will just stitch one way and then "double" back over itself to the beginning.

5. Make a form for the flower outline and duplicate it also. .Move the cross to color number 2 and fill the two copies of the flower outline. Put them on layer 3, out of the way

6. Make an outline for the two groups of petals that are to be shaded a slightly darker, shadowy, color. Use a line form or a free hand form, move the cross to color 3, and then select "Edit/border/line". Duplicate that also and put them on layer 3 too.

7. Now you need to change your "Preferences" so your stitch length is long enough for your satin stitches. For "Convert to satin ribbon", make my fill spacing .4 mm. Set the "fill ends" to "pointed", "satin border size" usually about 7 for this design, and "maximum stitch length" at 9 mm. This is the key to good fan fill satin; if the maximum stitch length is too short, you will get an unwanted line of stitches down the center of your fill. Thred won't make satin stitches longer than 9 mm. I also set my hoop size to Custom 100mm X 100mm, because I wanted to be sure this design would fit in that hoop. There are other Preferences settings, but these are the ones that matter right now.

8. Now make the outline of satin stitches for the leaves. The leaves come first because the petals droop over the edge of the leaves. Make a line form and then select it, and click on "Edit/convert to satin ribbon". Then move the "D" lines inside the form to arrange the stitches like you want them to be. You may also need to move form points on the inner and outer lines, or add or remove those form points as needed. To add form points you just point the cursor near an existing form point, hit the "W" key, then slide the new point down the form line to the place you want it to be. I sometimes add points along the sides to make the curves smooth. Also sometimes I add points to make the fill denser in spots. If you make the inside line longer, it makes more stitches in the fill, and this will help if the outside looks too thin on a curve. Sometimes you have to change the angle all along the line to make the curves fill smoothly. How much trouble you want to go to is a matter of artistic judgment.

9. View it in the movie, or walk through the design using the arrow keys. Lesson 33 shows how to use "Up to" to do this.

10. Then make the little golden sex organs in the center of the flower. I planned the path so the heart of the flower is closest to the end of the anchoring stitches for the third color of appliqué fabric because it's further back than the petals. You need to work from the background to the foreground in the design,so the correct parts overlap. Make a line form that follows the shape. Select it. Look to see the X is in the color you want to use for this part of the design. It should be the fourth color. Then left click on "edit/convert to satin ribbon".

11. Edit the fill of the heart of the flower. I zoom in and drag the dark lines and form edges around until I'm happy with the angle of the fill stitches and the curves. Sometimes I have to add form points (point the cursor near an existing form point, hit W" key,then slide the new point down the form line to the place you want it to be) among the sides to make the curves smooth, and sometimes I add points to make the fill denser in spots. If you make the inside line longer, it makes more stitches in the fill- this will help if the outside looks too thin on a curve.

12. Make a form for the first petal. Use "Edit/convert to satin ribbon", and then edit the stitch angles and curves. To do this, it helps to turn off the forms. Use "frm+/-".

13. Watch the design fill in the movie and see if it looks OK.If not, fix what needs fixing before you do more.

14. I suggest you look at the AG9 design I did to see the order I made it in. Someone else might think of a better stitching order,but to see the one I used, first hit "Q". That de-selects everything in the design. Now use the" up" arrow to find the first form, you can see the form number on the left side, above the layer number. I'm not going to tell you each petal in order, (instead I will use that time to make a simple step by step for beginners).You will have to use the movie and "up to" to figure out the order for the petals and the way I used line stitches to connect them. If you've made it this far into the design, you can probably figure it out. I'll gladly answer specific questions if you send them to AlfMc@charter.net,  or ThredTalk.

15. You will have to use "Add" and make a line of stitches along the path of some of the petals so that the fills end near the beginning point for the next petal, or you will have undesirable jump stitches.

16. The shadow line stitches in the last color were made by hand. I just "added" them where I wanted them, as part of the path to the next petal.

17. Once the petals are all filled remember to use "edit/Set/Knots".